Young, lean soldiers armed with machine guns cluster just inside the massive Jaffa Gate. A wooden cart full of pastries stands to the left, near a small fenced green where executions once took place. This is a busy entrance into Jerusalem's Old City, in Israel.
A map on the wall at the visitors' center displays neat lines to mark the Jewish, Armenian, Christian, and Muslim quarters of the walled village. But on the narrow, cobbled streets there's nothing carved in stone.