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NC Makes A Move In The Beer Game

Clay Whittaker
Friday June 11, 2010
MULTIMEDIA

A look inside Olde Mecklenburg brewery.

Last year wasn't great for beer, unless you brew it in small batches. U.S. beer sales were down 2 percent, according to the industry. But the craft segment of the beer market -those brewers that make less than 2 million barrels a year - grew by about 7 percent last year.

You might know some of these local labels: Carolina Blonde, Highland and Olde Mecklenburg. That last one is the only craft brewer, making and bottling beer right here in Charlotte - and it's actually quite new.


A few years ago, John Marrino was looking for a new gig after 18 years in the water treatment industry. Then one day, he read about a man brewing beer, and he started thinking about all the beer he used to drink when he lived in Germany.

"And I said 'okay, I can kill two birds with one stone here,'" says Marrino, "I can solve the problem of not having fresh beer in Charlotte, and I can get the German beer that I miss. And so I decided to open a brewery."

That was in 2006. Three years later, Marrino opened Olde Mecklenburg Brewery, replicating the German beer he loved.

Olde Meck is in a warehouse by the Charlotte airport. The entire brewery floor is sticky with beer, and smells a little like fresh bread. Marrino runs the place with the help of a half-dozen employees. He spends a lot of his time out on sales calls and making sure the customers are happy. His friendly approach has paid off in pints.

"We brewed last year about 1,045 barrels in nine months-our first nine months of operation-which is actually not bad for a microbrewery," explains Marrino. "But this year we're going to more than triple that. So it's really... we're really growing."

As more and more beer drinkers turn their tastes toward flavorful local brews, the U.S. Craft beer market has taken off. North Carolina falls in the middle of the pack, ranking 34th in breweries per capita, but North Carolina's breweries are getting noticed.

"There, I mean, there are so many breweries that people are starting to actually say, 'Oh yeah I know that brewery I've had their beer. They're from North Carolina,'" says Julia Herz, the Director of Craft Beer for the Brewers Association, a national organization supporting the brewing industry.

Herz says for decades American beer drinkers had few choices-and most of them were bland. Craft brewing has changed all that, but it wasn't easy.

Just ask Oscar Wong, one of North Carolina's craft beer pioneers: "When we began, it was rather difficult to get distributors to accept our brand and to consider taking it."

Wong founded Highland Brewing in Asheville in 1994. Now they're distributing across the Southeast. "The landscape has changed dramatically in the acceptance by regular people and regular beer drinkers," explains Wong, "and I think that's evidenced by the upsurge of interest across the country."

But the little guys still face challenges. The three major brewers, Anhaeuser-Busch, Miller and Coors, account for over 90 percent of the market. And they're territorial.

"We have to get on the taps in the bars and restaurants," says Marrino. "And there are no open taps. In order for us to get a tap, somebody's losing a tap."

Plus, the big brewers are trying to capture the craft beer market too, and they're advertising heavily. Industry data show these new beers from the big brewers have sold well in their initial months on the market. Smaller brewers say competition from the big three may actually help them if it entices beer drinkers to try something new.

But helpful or not, John Marrino isn't worried about the competition. In the year since he opened, he's already managed to get Olde Meck on tap in at least 140 bars in the Charlotte region. "No matter how big these guys get," he argues, "they'll never be able to deliver fresher beer to Charlotte than me, unless they put a brewery here."

So far none of the major U.S. brewers is planning to do that, so John Marrino is making plans of his own. In a few months, he'll install two new fermentation tanks to keep up with demand for Olde Mecklenburg.

10 COMMENTS | >>Leave a comment

This reporter is AWFUL! HOly CRAP!
Comment by fredfinkleton - June 30, 2010 4:10 PM
I plan on coming to North Carolina soon and can't wait to stop in at Old Mecklenberg Brewery. I know some people in the area and they tell me the beer and the atmosphere are great. Haven't been to Germany, but know the beer there is the best...looking forward to checking out the German brew!
Comment by oldcountry - June 18, 2010 3:25 PM
Skull Coast has a local label, but is contract brewed several hours away. Same with Carolina Beer....their local presence at this point is in name only. North Carolina has plenty of true local beers!
Comment by User7 - June 15, 2010 4:16 PM
Charlotte has had its chance with craft beer breweries. Remember Mill Restaurant Brewery, Dilworth Brewing, Johnson Brewing and a very short-lived brew-on-premises? But until recently with OMB, Skull Coast (Fort Mills), Hops in Matthews, Four Friends (still around?) and Carolina, the city has not provided much support. Kinda like the Hornets/Bobcats, I guess.
Comment by Bobby - June 14, 2010 8:54 PM
Bobby, Eman wasn't saying that NC is a poor beer state. He was commenting that Charlotte's beer culture is somewhat lacking. In truth, it is -- but breweries like OMB and Rock Bottom are changing that. This article could also use the eye of a copy editor. ;)
Comment by Daniel - June 13, 2010 9:58 AM
Find these and every craft brewery in the U.S. and Canada at www.pubquest.com. Cheers!
Comment by pqjulie - June 13, 2010 12:39 AM
NC brewers make some of the best beers in the country and OMB is one of them brewing great beer. But don't lose sight of any of the other 40 some NC brewers. In addition to OMB charlotte also has Rockbottom brewpub as well as many other fine beers on tap serviced by NC brewers only a hours drive away. Support NC beer visit NCBEER.Org to learn more.
Comment by steven - June 11, 2010 8:02 PM
Great report!
Comment by robbosterl - June 11, 2010 8:02 PM
I beg to differ, Carolina Beer & Beverage of Mooresville and Highland Brewing of Asheville are craft beer breweries. NC has over 40 craft breweries (including brewpubs). Don't get lost in semantics, NC is a great beer state with the most breweries period in the South.
Comment by Bobby - June 11, 2010 5:26 PM
It's abut time. Charlotte is only a few thousand years behind in terms of beer brewing. There is this beer called 'Carolina Blonde' which pretty good, said to be an NC beer...yet it was actually brewed and bottled in Pennsylvania.
Comment by Eman - June 11, 2010 4:16 PM
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